Ramps

Ramps or wild leeks, are the super foods of spring.  They are one of the earliest wild edibles to show, and for many they are the prize Spring foraging.  People have long depended on the Spring greens for their restorative qualities after long, hungry winters. Ramps are high vitamin C and have saved many from nutritional deficiencies.

These prized alliums, known as ramsoms in Europe are distant cousins of the Lily.  They appear in forests from South Carolina to Canada and are usually found near water in shady areas of the woods.  Ramps grow in sandy, rocky soil and are abundant along the spine of the Appalachian Trail on the East Coast.

I was first introduced to ramps twelve years ago when I catered a wedding for a chef from New York. He was getting married Memorial Day weekend and he wanted ramps in every dish.  I remember being surprised and bewildered.  Ramps?  I wasn’t even sure what they were.  He asked if I could get them and my familiarity has continued to grow with each April and May.  In the past two weeks at least 12 people have asked me if I know where ramps grow.  I have heard several folks claim to go ramp foraging.  I know ramps do not grow on Martha’s Vineyard, but I am seeing them on menus and I saw them in our local grocery store (Cronig’s Market) last week for $24.99 per pound.

As ramps become a staple on Spring menus, more foragers are seeking them out.  Talk of over-foraging and limited availability brings to question harvesting practices. In Quebec, foraging ramps is now illegal and in Western Massachusetts, there was rumblings that they are harder to find, but at the same time, I heard of a CSA that has planted and successfully grown a half an acre of ramps.

I was at my favorite Bed and Breakfast The Inn at Sweet Water Farm on Sunday night as we made a stop in Great Barrington to pick up two pigs. Lynda Fisher presented me with two large bags of blanched and frozen ramps from her freezer.  I told her that ramps to do not grow on Martha’s Vineyard and she acknowledged ramps only grow on the spine of the Appalachian trail.  I had never heard this before.  I made a stop at the Berkshire Coop on my way out of town and bought 5 pounds of ramps as well as 3 pounds of fiddleheads.  Guess what is on my menu tonight?

Our first wedding of the season is June 8th and I will be making ramp butter today which will keep if it is well packaged and frozen. Here are a few recipes if you find yourself with a handful or two of ramps:Ramp Compound Butter1 lb softened unsalted butter2 cups ramp greens, blanched and chopped2 Tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juiceCombine all ingredients in a food processor until smooth and pack in small containers. Use just as you would garlic butter.Ramp Pesto2 cups washed and coarsely chopped ramps greens, blanched and patted dry4 Tablespoons pine nuts1/4 cup grated hard cheese, like Parmesan¼ cup extra virgin olive oilPlace all the ingredients except the olive oil into a food processor and pulse until finely chopped. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil until a thick paste forms. You will have about a half cup of pesto.Spring Super Food Green SoupThis is really just an expansion of the watercress or nettle soup, but what a powerhouse of nutrients!½ cup xtra virgin olive oil4 cups whole ramps, bulbs and leaves blanched2 celery diced1 lb stinging nettles4 cups chopped watercress2 teaspoons salt1 head cauliflower steamed and chopped small2 quarts vegetable or chicken stockzest of one lemonHeat Olive oil in large pot. Add celery and cook until soft. Add ramps and cauliflower and mix through cooking for another minute. Add stock and bring to simmer. Drop the nettles in until just wilted. Add chopped watercress and immediately remove from heat and mix with immersion blender or good blender.Note:  If you do not have a powerful blender, steam the nettles in broth until wilted, hand chop fine, then add to soup mixture and blend.Serves 8-10